Suspension - droop question
Hi, i'm new to the forum, wanted to ask a simple suspension question, which I haven't seen addressed on any of the other big suspension threads here (or my teammates).
I have read TTW and part of RVD, so I do know the basics, this is more of a FSAE specific thing that I was hoping to hear some experienced opinions. Might be totally amateur, but gotta start somewhere right?
By rules, we are required to have 1in of up, and 1in of downward travel. From what I understand you don't need much more than 2in (my team's current car has about that much) travel front and rear - rear a bit more.
So, that would mean that to meet rules the car has to sit halfway into its travel - from my limited experience tuning the 15' Ryerson car (of which I did not design the suspension, and the designer is pretty much unreachable for help), that means
a pretty soft setup (from looking at the driving, and a bit of driving myself - also installed linear pots, haven't got data yet)
So heres my question - is a half droop setup inherently too soft for our kind of tracks? (with sufficient antiroll) or is that a reasonable setup on a racecar like this?
Also, seeing teams have pretty stiff roll resistance, is there even any value in having that much spare droop, performance wise?
Thanks in advance for the responses.
Figured I should have an intro -
2nd year mech at Ryerson, suspension Co-lead along with another teammate for this year.
Car took 2 years - 1 for design, 1 for build (painfully inefficient time management). I was there for the build, and so did not even meet the guy who designed suspension -
he graduated, and didn't keep in contact. This year i'm doing a partial redesign, of which one thing is adding adjustability to get some good real world testing of different characteristics.
Your car points you one way
AG_,
The driver matters quite a bit, and what she thinks (there's no minimum weight) matters to both laptimes, setup, and confidence.
Is last year's car driveable? Can you take it somewhere to test? If you can, you can find out whether it's too stiff or too soft. The driver might just flat-out tell you - if it's far too stiff, you'll get complaints about the pounding, if it's too soft, you'll get complaints about having to drive the smallest '99 Buick Century ever (sorry, BillCobb - with all of General Motors' abilities and experience in vehicle dynamics, they still made marshmallowmobiles).
If you'd rather not trust your driver, pull a zip-tie tight around the damper rod, and go for a few laps of a smooth skidpad. If it is pounded into the bumpstop, then you are soft enough in roll to be bottoming out. If you're running a soft-spring/stiff-ARB setup, this may not be the case, and you will have to set up a little oval to find that your springs are too soft to prevent you from pitching the nose into the pavement under braking.
Negative driver feedback usually does not come with good laptimes, so never let the car leave the pits without a stopwatch on it just in case you find an exception.
As for travel, you're required to HAVE 2" of kinematic travel. How much you use is up to you. If you're seeing advantages from running a soft setup right up until you bottom out or top out, then you may want to design your car to have and use more. You do not have to use all 2", either. Go to the local kart track and ask to try a TaG or shifter out, or have one of the TaG or shifter drivers drive your car - this may be especially useful if you can compare laptimes. A kart has substantially less kinematic travel than a midpack FSAE car.
Now that you've qualified what you're looking for, go quantify it. Find your center-of-gravity location, then calculate what the rolling moment about some point on the car will be at the cornering acceleration you've found in skidpad testing, and the pitching moment from the braking acceleration. Then, get a big spring scale and a ratchet strap and apply this moment, while measuring travel at both ends. If you take a few points working up and down to these peak loads, you might confirm what you'd calculated from RCVD, or learn something completely different. Either would be useful for the design of a new car.
Just remember, everything's a spring, and a 1/2" diameter "oh-two-thin" wall A-arm tube or pushrod is a soft enough one that you should probably calculate its effects!
Your job is to take this rambling and turn it into a real test plan, run it, and use its results to make your design decisions.