Controlling the LSU 4.9/Opinions on Tech Edge

[Mbirt]

I'm looking for a few opinions related to the use of the Bosch LSU 4.9 WBO2 sensor. We have a sponsorship for the sensor and would like to upgrade to it. We have both the AEM UEGO gauge (LSU 4.2) and Powerdex AFX (NTK), but no way to drive the 4.9.

First, do you have first or secondhand experience using the sensor and have any feedback relating to it? Was the increased accuracy during lean operation noticable? How were you controlling the sensor?

Second, does anyone have experience or opinions regarding the modern Tech Edge WBO2 products? The 2J9, http://www.wbo2.com/2j/2j9.htm, is currently at the top of my list. We won't be switching to MoTeC just to change WBO2 sensors and the Aim controller is pricy.

Thanks!

[Cardriverx]

What are you currently using for the ECU and datalogging?

I mean for our cases, it probably really is not worth it if it will cost you a lot. Here is a good description of the differences:

http://www.ecotrons.com/Bosch%...204.2%20sensors.html (http://www.ecotrons.com/Bosch%20LSU%204.9%20is%20superior%20to%20LSU%204.2 %20sensors.html)

I have never used Tech Edge, but I am not a fan of those green screw connectors for the wires (if you will be using it on the car). I am sure the devices themselves are good, I think they make some stuff for OEMs.

[Kirk Feldkamp]

Are you plugging into an ECU, a DAQ system, or just using it as a standalone?

[Rex Chan]

I can only tell you what we use/used:

In 2009, we used and killed 2 LSU4.9. After that, I went back to LSU 4.2. We use a MoTeC PLM to control our lambda sensors. Other teams I know use the built in MoTeC ECU option.

Sorry, but we only switch when something goes wrong, so can't really compare. I'd trust what Bosch say (i.e. 4.9 are for lean burn)

Edit: we were killing sensors because we were leaving them on (heating element on) all the time. Lesson learnt is don't heat your sensor til the engine starts (we power them 20s after starting).

[jlangholzj]

Originally posted by Rex Chan:
I can only tell you what we use/used:

In 2009, we used and killed 2 LSU4.9. After that, I went back to LSU 4.2. We use a MoTeC PLM to control our lambda sensors. Other teams I know use the built in MoTeC ECU option.

Sorry, but we only switch when something goes wrong, so can't really compare. I'd trust what Bosch say (i.e. 4.9 are for lean burn)

Edit: we were killing sensors because we were leaving them on (heating element on) all the time. Lesson learnt is don't heat your sensor til the engine starts (we power them 20s after starting).

we had rookies on our team do that as well. Typically I wait until the motor temps are up to ~170 before warming the sucker up and then its about a 30s or so warm up cycle to get it reading

[Mbirt]

Thanks for the input, guys.

Cardriverx, Kirk,
We're currently using a ProEFI48 ecu with a switch to Pi Shurlok OpenECU coming soon. Logging is done by a laptop to the side of the dyno or an Intrepid CS CAN logger once we figure out our messages. All we need is an output to the ECU, a display for standalone use would be of secondary importance. Thanks for the link to the new, smaller unit from Ecotrons. That puts them back in the picture.

Rex, John,
Your experiences concern me. I expect anything controlling the heating element to work in a fashion similar to the 4.2 and NTK sensors. They seem to be perfectly content draining the battery while the car is accidentally left on at the main kill switch. Could this be a Motec-specific issue?

[Rex Chan]

I think MoTeC, in general, lets you set whatever you want, so if you put something on a stupid setting, it will do exactly what you ask.
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In this case, if you tell it to warm up the sensor, it will try to get it up to operatuing temp (~900C). Maybe the 4.2 are more robust, or these other controllers has a built in safety limit?

Either way, if you read the Bosch manual, it tells you to not heat it up until the engine is started, so your lack of dead sensors is just good fortune.

[Screaming V8]

I second the fact that the LSU 4.9s are a lot easier to kill, we have killed one so far, and I attribute it to being left to heat more than necessary. In motec there are 2 settings, normal and fast heat. We use the fast heat setting on the dyno since we can get a lambda reading right as the motor starts to tune the start up tables and comps. This mode keeps the sensor heating while the engine is off so you have instant readings. In normal mode, you can set the time it should start heating after the engine is running.

Since then, we have switched back to the LSU 4.2 for the dyno, since they can be used on fast heat all the time, at least in our experience.

[jlangholzj]

Originally posted by Mbirt:
Thanks for the input, guys.

Cardriverx, Kirk,
We're currently using a ProEFI48 ecu with a switch to Pi Shurlok OpenECU coming soon. Logging is done by a laptop to the side of the dyno or an Intrepid CS CAN logger once we figure out our messages. All we need is an output to the ECU, a display for standalone use would be of secondary importance. Thanks for the link to the new, smaller unit from Ecotrons. That puts them back in the picture.

Rex, John,
Your experiences concern me. I expect anything controlling the heating element to work in a fashion similar to the 4.2 and NTK sensors. They seem to be perfectly content draining the battery while the car is accidentally left on at the main kill switch. Could this be a Motec-specific issue?

birt I'm sorry...must have missed this.

with MoTec there's the 'fast heat' and 'standard' or normal operation. The fast heat starts the current pump as soon as the ECU has power. The normal operation mode doesn't start the current pump until the motor has been running for at least 10 seconds. It also will shut off the sensor once the motor stops running.