Brake Line Question

[Funky Town]

Hey all,

I'm trying to put together an order for brake components. I've never put together a brake line before and I have not found any really good sites describing how to fit ends on steel brake hose. Is this hard to do? Does it require special tools?

If it isn't worth the trouble I'm looking at just getting the Longacre brake line kit offered on the Pegasus site: http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecId=1486

Has anyone used this kit before? any comments?

Cheers,

Chris

[Dan B]

You will need a 37deg flare tool that will work with stainless steel. They aren't cheap.

[Analogue]

The Parker Rolo-Flare tool works very well, it costs around 100 bucks.

A flaring tool rated for stainless will cost many times that. Stainless tubing is not necessary, but I refuse to use the classic Bundyweld tubing with a single flare. I use seamless carbon steel hydraulic tubing, which McMaster has at a reasonable price. It's a pain to find in the catalog. Ask and I'll dig up a part number.

Keith

[Brian Evans]

I've done many cars using AN sleeve nuts and single flares on normal Bundy tubing with zero failures. This on road-race cars, not FSAE. I now prefer to use all -3 stainless braided hose, but at increased cost. The real-world performance of the hose is fine - undetectable from hard lines. Many pro teams are now using -2 stainless braided hose front to back on top level ALMS, Grand-Am type cars.

Brian

[Dave M]

summit racing also sells a cheap 37 degree flaring tool.

Earls has a decent selection of -2 lines. We used -2 lines with -3 nuts so we could use all of the -3 bulkheads etc.

[Funky Town]

Kieth,

If you have that part number handy for McMaster I'd like to take a look at that tubing.

Thanks,

Chris

[Analogue]

McMaster 9922K113

It bends and flares very well, despite the application being listed as for compression fittings.

[CMURacing - Prometheus]

you don't want the above part. you want bundyweld tubing, mcmaster part no: 5176K22

the reason is, when you bend/flare/pressurize the seamed stuff, there's a chance (remote) that it will rupture. and the bundyweld stuff is way cheaper, even than you could get it at an auto parts store.

[Analogue]

The part number I gave is for seamless carbon steel tubing. If you want to pay more, you can use stainless for 37 deg flares. If you want to pay less, perhaps you should find a different hobby.

Bundyweld tubing is cheaper. Why do you think Detroit uses it? I still don't feel it's the right stuff for single flares. Keep in mind the Bundyweld also has a seam.

By the way, here's a quote from the manufacturer of Bundyweld.

"The Bundy-Double-Walled Flare is a MUST for safest carriage of high pressure, for effective resistance to greater wrench torque on fittings, for safety in frequent coupling and uncoupling of fittings – and especially for safety in hydraulic brake lines, where all three of the above are desirable."

Still think it's the right stuff for AN fittings?

Keith