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Horace
05-26-2007, 07:52 PM
Hello,

Probably an easy question but I could not find it in the Find option. Anyways, do you guys have chain tools to adjust the length of your chains by removing and adding links? Or is the chain adjustments more complex than the ones on bicycles? Problem is that my team has designed a frame that requires the chain to go around a tube member that cannot be removed, and we aren't sure if teams just buy aftermarket chains and slap them on or if its okay to fool around with them.

We're a first year team if you hadn't figured yet http://fsae.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_smile.gif

Horace

Horace
05-26-2007, 07:52 PM
Hello,

Probably an easy question but I could not find it in the Find option. Anyways, do you guys have chain tools to adjust the length of your chains by removing and adding links? Or is the chain adjustments more complex than the ones on bicycles? Problem is that my team has designed a frame that requires the chain to go around a tube member that cannot be removed, and we aren't sure if teams just buy aftermarket chains and slap them on or if its okay to fool around with them.

We're a first year team if you hadn't figured yet http://fsae.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_smile.gif

Horace

VFR750R
05-26-2007, 08:16 PM
There are chain tools in most motorcycle parts catalogs. Most likely you'll be getting a rivet type master link. Once you cut your chain to length (with a cutoff wheel) the master link goes on and has to be 'peened' on the end of the pins to keep the side plate from coming back off. There are directions on the box when you buy the chain. You can also get a clipped masterlink which will allow you to take the chain on and off multiple times without replacing the master link, but clipped chains are not as strong and the clip can come off resulting in a broken chain.

My suggestion would be to run a clipped chain for testing and replace with a new chain and new rivet style master link for competition.

Most teams run 520, 525 or 530 chain which is standard on most dirt and street bikes. There is 630 chain but these cars don't get enough traction to need it and 430 chain is a bit small.

A 'peening' tool can be made with a C clamp. Sharpen a high quality bolt or piece of tool steel that can be placed on the end of the bolt a squish the link pins after you've put the side plate on.

Welfares
05-26-2007, 10:12 PM
We've run a DID x-ring 520 chain with a clip link since 2001 and never had any issues with it.

Make sure you build in some method of adjustment, as a brand new chain will stretch quit a bit to begin with.

To shorten the length of your chain to begin with, grind the rivet head off the cross pin, and then knock it out with a pin punch.

Welfares
05-30-2007, 12:28 AM
Actually, i have a chain question of my own.

How do people choose their chain?

If you look up the catalogue ratings, then, as they are for industrial applications, the chains are rated for alot less than what any team is putting them through.

I realise there are alot of people out there who just look at what other people have run in the past, or what is run on motorcycles, but has anyone ever found any data on high load/overloaded chains, in short term applications, or anything similar?