Starting Honda CBR600F4i

[RichE]

We are a rookie team running behind with everything at the moment. We are trying to start our engine for the first time but can't get a spark or any fuel from the injectors. Can anyone help with advice on where we could have gone wrong.
We have bypassed
Clutch
side stand
bank angle sensor

We suspect the immobiliser, we have the H I S S sensor, Key, barrel etc but still no joy. It seems the ECM is unhappy with something but we don't know what.

Cardiff Uni
FS Team Manager

[leclercjs]

Did you bybass the key ignition switch!!!

Check for a post of university of Venezuela on this!!!

It was the same thing with us when we wanted to start of our F4i newly bought

Jean Sébastien Leclerc
Dir. Formule SAE Poly 2004
http://www.fsae.polymtl.ca

[Kevin Hall]

The pink wire should be hooked to 12V with an inline 160 ohm (or so) resistor.

Kevin Hall
University of Saskatchewan
'03-'04 Team Director

[fsae_alum]

Don't start off making life harder than it needs to be. From experience 2 years ago with the F4i, start off with everything needed to make it run properly JUST AS IT WAS IN THE BIKE. That means, have the bank angle sensor, ignition switch, kickstand, fuel pump, and everything else plugged in. Then bypass them ONE at a time. NOT all at the same time. It will be much less frustrating...trust me. If all else fails, use the key switch (works as a great deterrant from having somebody going for joyrides) and the bank angle switch (rollover protection fuel cut). Worked for us

In spite of...

[Alfonso Ochoa]

Yes but in that case you need the STOCK key switch (and it weights 400 grams, almost a pound) because it has, internally, a 4 volts zener diode that puts pink's wire voltage on 8,5-9 volts aproximately.
In 2002 we burned out a stock ECM and maybe was for using an universal key switch and putting 12 volts to the pink wire...just waht we guess.

Alfonso Ochoa Vega
cabezota311@hotmail.com
F-SAE USB Team, Venezuela

[fsae_alum]

I am WELL aware that that damn thing is VERY VERY heavy...but hey in my opinion...if it works it's a place to start!! http://fsae.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif

In spite of...

[Alfonso Ochoa]

Totally agree with that...try using everything stock at first...then start taking things off...

Alfonso Ochoa Vega
cabezota311@hotmail.com
F-SAE USB Team, Venezuela

[foo]

Hi! My name is Foo Win Lim. I'm from University of Technology Petronas (UTP), Malaysia. I am currently attached to the engine dept of UTP's newly formed FSAE team. We are in the midst of preparing our first prototype. We just bought a used cbr 600 f4i engine, but it did not come with the ignition switch.

i read in the FSAE forum that a simple circuitry is needed to bypass the anti-theft system. i was wondering if anyone could explain how to fabricate the circuit because we couldn't start our engine. The engine cranks but won't start. the fuel pump is working, but it seems that the injectors are not injecting fuel. also, there's no power supply to the fuel pump using the f4i's wire harness. we used an external source to power the fuel pump.

What i did was to connect the +12V to the anode of a 3.9V zener diode, which is connected in series with a 1kohm resistor at the cathode of the zener diode. the GND is connected to the other end of the resistor. then the pink wire is connected to the cathode of the zener diode. is this circuit correct? the clutch switch, bank angle sensor, and side stand was bypassed also.

Could there be anything else that's causing this problem? I hope someone can help me.

one more thing, do you have the valve lifts data of this engine from 0 to 360 deg and the intake/exhaust valve diameters? i need it to put into the gt-power program to simulate the engine. currently the simulation is not accurate because i lack this info. because we're trying to start the engine now, we don't want to take it apart first.

hope you guys can help. everyone's help is very much appreciated. thanx!

[prat]

hello evryone! I from the Delhi College of Engineering, India. Well we are facing very much the same problem as foo is. It would be great if someone could explain the circuit for the key switch. Or is the one mentioned above correct??

[Rex]

Digging up a VERY old thread because I just went through this exercise of getting the stock F4i ECU to work without any of the stock sensors or key switch. I remembered this post, and how many different resistors and diodes were suggested, so figured I would follow up.

First, make sure you have bypassed the appropriate sensors (kickstand, bank angle, clutch).

Second, I can conclusively tell you that the pink security wire on the ECU is looking for 9.0V. Not 9.5V, not 8.5V, but 9.0V give or take maybe 0.1V. Anything much higher or lower and it's not gonna work.

And third, assuming you're just interested in getting the thing working to test the engine or something similar (as opposed to a long-term robust on-car solution), I suggest you throw a potentiometer in line with the pink wire and dial in 9.0V. I promise it's lots easier than guessing at the correct resistors or trying to get ahold of zener diodes at 2am. You probably have a pot sitting around that will work for this purpose.

[olie05]

Also, in order to bypass the kickstand bank angle and clutch stuff, you will see (from studying the diagram) that you only have to supply 12v to a black and white wire coming off a gray 10p connector. It is alot easier than going through each one by one.

(hi matt!)

[NeoViper]

hi guys.

what you'd need to do is throw in a zener to reduce the voltage by about 3V. my team's using a 3.3V zener and its working alright. the circuit should look something like:
(batt)------- --|<|-- -------(pink line into ECU)
foo: if your fuel pump's connected externally, i guess you can take out the fuel cut relay. the engine stop relay needs to be in though. if the engine stop relay turns on, then the bypassing should be correct and the Bl/W line should be powered.
if the Bl/W line is at 12V or above, it's likely not injecting cos of a lack of control signals from the ECU. in that case, u need to check the FI light. it should be the W/Bu line coming out of the black connector.
if you have the stock f4i display, look at it for a "FI" light. it's one of the warning lights which appear if certain components such as the injectors are not connected. in whch case, it doesn't fire as well.
(it cranks but doesn't fire, since the cranking circuit is seperate)