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Thread: Box tubed uprights

  1. #1
    My team (first year) is toying with some designs of square tubed uprights (4130). We're trying to figure out whether our analysis are accurate or not and have been trying to find some pics of what other schools do as far as basic uprights go. Most of the pics from the older threads have already been removed from the servers so searching didn't get me too far. Perhaps someone can provide us with some guidance?

    Thank you
    Horace Lai

  2. #2
    My team (first year) is toying with some designs of square tubed uprights (4130). We're trying to figure out whether our analysis are accurate or not and have been trying to find some pics of what other schools do as far as basic uprights go. Most of the pics from the older threads have already been removed from the servers so searching didn't get me too far. Perhaps someone can provide us with some guidance?

    Thank you
    Horace Lai

  3. #3
    Pittsburgh has had a lot of success with them. they are quick to make, cheap, light, and stiff. You can check out our site, www.engr.pitt.edu/fsae, or email me (landreneau.fsae@gmail.com) if you have any other questions
    John Landreneau
    University of Pittsburgh
    Panther Racing

  4. #4
    Here are two pictures of our steel uprights before completion. They took longer than expected to make, are fairly heavy, but did not cost too much.

    I found through FEA that simply welding a bearing housing into the middle of a steel tube was not very stiff. That is why we welded the tube to the side of the bearing housing as seen in the second picture.

    Also keep in mind that the housing will warp some during welding. Be prepared to finish the bore after welding. If you don't have enough swing on your lathe make sure you put in the snap ring groove (if your planning on having one) before welding it in. Then you can use a boring bar to clean it up. We didn't do this for our a-arm housings and had to set up an elaborate rotary table fixture and t-slot cutter to do our grooves.


  5. #5
    Could only fit one picture for some reason.

    Jevon
    Villanova FSAE


  6. #6
    I wouldn't trust myself doing the stress analysis on a welded upright, as-welded or normalized.
    Colorado FSAE | '05 - '07
    Goodyear Tire & Rubber | '07 - '11
    NASCAR Engineer | '11 - ??

  7. #7
    <BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Jevon:
    If you don't have enough swing on your lathe make sure you put in the snap ring groove (if your planning on having one) before welding it in. Then you can use a boring bar to clean it up. We didn't do this for our a-arm housings and had to set up an elaborate rotary table fixture and t-slot cutter to do our grooves.
    </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

    You used snap ring groves as your only means of bearing retention?
    Michigan State University Driveline Since 2005

  8. #8
    We used retangular tubing for our first year car. It was relatively easy to make, we used jigs to get the angles correct while cutting and welding.

    Definitely need to run welds in more than one plane, as Jevon pointed out. If you dont get a weld on the side of the upright the bearing carrier will flex in the upright






    a whole bunch of parts, sorry its not a higher resolution picture

    The Cooper Union

  9. #9
    <BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Boston:
    You used snap ring groves as your only means of bearing retention? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

    We have a shoulder on the inboard side of the upright and a snap ring on the outboard side. The highest axial loads push against the shoulder. Although snap rings can take a lot of load and I wouldn't be opposed to having snap rings on either side of the bearing. Lots of OEM's do it this way.

    The ring we use is rated for 60.6 kN (~13600lbf) .

    Jevon

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