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Thread: OEM crank & cam sensors & trigger wheel patterns

  1. #1
    Hi,

    I'd like to put together a database of OEM crank & cam sensor types and trigger wheel patterns. I think this will be useful for any teams looking to spec. ECUs for a particular engine.

    If you are willing to contribute please reply with any / all of the following info:

    Engine manufacturer, engine model, model year.
    Crank sensor type (VRS or Hall, 2-wire or 3-wire, whatever you know)
    Crank trigger wheel tooth pattern (missing tooth, extra tooth, special pattern, timing of pattern, etc.)
    Cam sensor type, if fitted (VRS or Hall, 2-wire or 3-wire, whatever you know)
    Cam sensor trigger (camshaft detail, special trigger wheel, timing of trigger, etc)

    Don't worry if you don't know it all. Periodically I'll collate and format the info, and highlight any inconsistencies.

    Thanks in advance, Ian

  2. #2
    Yamaha Genesis 80fi 2007-2009 (at least)
    Crank sensor type: VRS (2 wire)
    Crank trigger type: 12 tooth, no missing teeth
    Cam sensor type: Hall (3 wire)
    Cam trigger type: standard cam shaft target

    many thanks
    Regards
    Jon

  3. #3
    06-07 Yamaha R6r
    Crank sensor - VRS (2w)
    Crank Trigger - 24-2
    Cam sensor - Hall (3w)
    Cam trigger - once per rev
    CRIP - 148*
    South Dakota State University Alum
    Electrical/Daq/Engine/Drivetrain/Tire guy '09-'14

    Go big, Go blue, Go JACKS!

  4. #4
    Honda CBR 600 F4i, 2003
    Crank Sensor - Magnetic (2 wire)
    Crank Trigger - 12 tooth, no missing
    Cam Sensor - Magnetic (2 wire)
    Cam Trigger - Stock is 3 teeth (1BDC, 1TDC, 1 15*BTDC). We have all but 1 tooth at TDC chopped to run our ViPEC ECU.
    Owen Thomas
    University of Calgary FSAE, Schulich Racing

  5. #5
    Heyho,

    2004 Yamaha R6 RJ09, may be the same as the 2003 RJ05:

    Crank sensor: Variable reluctance 2-wire, 4 - 0 teeth on crank trigger wheel. Usually needs to be replaced by a wheel with at least 12 teeth. Outer wheel diameter around 2.5inch / 62mm (don't know exactely), inner diameter on our modified wheels is 16H7. Thickness is unknown to me at the moment. Wheel needs a "nose" to mate with a notch on the crankshaft.

    Cam sensor: Hall effect 5 Volt 3-wire, one tooth. Does not need to be modified for aftermarket ECUs. Beware: The camshafts from the Yamaha Fazer (same engine, different camshafts) do not have this cam wheel and use a wasted spark setup, so you cannot easily switch camshafts without loosing sequential injection & ignition. Moreover the non-functional surface parts of the fazer camshafts have not been ground/lathed after casting!

    If you need more info just ask.
    Tilman Schröder
    GETracing Dortmund, alumnus
    University of Technology Dortmund, Germany

  6. #6
    Honda F4i
    Crank Sensor - Magnetic 2 wire
    Crank Trigger - 12 tooth stock, we have a 6 tooth in one of our engines
    Cam Sensor - Magnetic 2 wire
    Cam Trigger - 3 teeth

  7. #7
    Hi Guys,

    This is a topic that is near and dear to me

    We have slowly been adding stock crank and cam patterns for OEM engines as we work with new teams and customers. They get added directy to the PE3 engine software/firmare so you don't have to modify the stock wheels. If you come accross a new configuration please contact us and we can get it into the PE3.

    Murpia - When you get a sheet put together, send it to me and I will add the ones that I know. We support some crazy configurations now.
    Brian Lewis
    Performance Electronics, Ltd.
    www.pe-ltd.com
    http://www.facebook.com/Perf.Elec.Ltd
    Engine Management Systems

  8. #8
    Originally posted by B Lewis @ PE Engine Management:
    We have slowly been adding stock crank and cam patterns for OEM engines as we work with new teams and customers. They get added directy to the PE3 engine software/firmare so you don't have to modify the stock wheels. If you come accross a new configuration please contact us and we can get it into the PE3.
    You need all the timing information to do that, don't you?
    I remember that our engine guys had some trouble getting a timing light working on ignition coils which incorporate a coil driver and a spark plug connector into one part. The solution was a microcontroller with an LED attached but this device does not work anymore ...

    Do you know where to buy a proper timing light which works with an ignition setup where spark plug connector and ignition coil are one single part? (Only 12V / 5V signals, no high voltage ignition wire available)
    Tilman Schröder
    GETracing Dortmund, alumnus
    University of Technology Dortmund, Germany

  9. #9
    Hi all,

    Many thanks for all the responses.

    I am looking into a Google Docs form & linked spreadsheet to allow easy update & access to the info.

    I need to play around with the format a little first, to be sure to capture all the info.

    Thanks again, Ian

  10. #10
    Tilman,

    If I am not mistaken, you can hook up a normal spark plug connector (no igniter) to your signal and power wires and get a read off of that with a standard timing light. We use a separate igniter currently, and I have timed our engine with and without it wired up. The spark may be weaker but the signal is still there, and it shouldn't be hard to get a regular coil on the cheap. I do have to say that I have never experienced the problem you are having, however.

    As an alternative, it is also possible to jam some wire between the coil and the plug, and put the timing light pickup around that wire. Remember that the plug does not have to be in the engine to verify timing.
    Owen Thomas
    University of Calgary FSAE, Schulich Racing

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