I have calculated the dimensions of the radiator as 14x7x2 for a 600cc engine ....and aluminium as material for radiator is it possible...that i can reduce these figure because i am having problems with packaging ...urgent help required ..plz
I have calculated the dimensions of the radiator as 14x7x2 for a 600cc engine ....and aluminium as material for radiator is it possible...that i can reduce these figure because i am having problems with packaging ...urgent help required ..plz
these figures are in INCHES ...14X7X2 cubic inch
As it just so happens, that was the exact same dimension we had for our radiator last year.
Didn't cool for worth a damn.
But it wasn't really because it wasn't the right size. The real deal is ducting. You've gotta force as much air as you can through your radiator.
I presume you've calculated your heat rejection and the expected air temps and coolant temps? You'll also need your coolant flow rate... not to offend, I'm assuming you already have those.
The problem is, you're pretty much gonna need roughly the same size area on your radiator.
Hmmmm... I'm rambling a bit. Try to clear up your question a bit more than just "I need a smaller radiator", and I'll do what I can to help.
Depending on what your packaging requirements are and who will be making the core you could go to a thicker core, make it square, relocate it, use two smaller radiators, try a copper/brass radiator, or probably a myriad of other things.
Josh Gillett
Oregon State FSAE '04-'06
Switching to a copper/brass radiator may be an option, but extensive testing would have to be done to show that it could cool the same amount as the aluminum radiator. For a good article about a go-kart guy using a copper radiator, see http://www.ozsuperkart.net/TechArticles/radiators.htm
Perhaps a copper radiator would not be much better. According to some websites, typically the tubes are made of brass, but the fins are made of copper. To join the two together, a lead solder is usually used. This solder lowers the conductivity between the tubes and the fins, so an aluminum radiator may actually be the same or more effective for the size.
A rather new technology that will most likely replace the lead solder is Cuprobraze. This method brazes the copper and brass together (at a much lower temperature than the soldering process), so better conductivity and lighter weight are possible. However, Cuprobraze is not very common yet, and I am not sure what, if any, radiator shops are currently using it.
So for the time being, aluminum radiators in general have more cooling per unit mass because more time and money has been spent developing them over the past 30 years than has been spent on developing copper/brass radiators.
Therefore, the simplest way to cool your radiator better while not requiring much more space would probably be a fan that flows more air.
http://www.copper.org/environment/tr...radiators.html
http://www.sae.org/automag/metals/13.htm
We got our Perma-Cool 1650 CFM fan in today. The surprising part is that it covers 80% of our radiator with no shroud. Too bad it weighs 4 lbs.
Could anyone suggest me the core dimensions for an R6?
Also how effective are twin radiators? Are they equivalent to doubling the core?
What should be the fan specs?
Nitesh,
as regards core size please read the many posts on this thread already: to summarise i could give you a core size but it would mean nothing as it subsequently depends on fin geometry, fin material gauge, fin pack, louvers, tube profile, tube wall gauge, tube dimple pattern aka turbulence promoters (if any), core layout, and many other factors. size alone means next to nothing.
Twin radiators have the benefit of being two smaller rather than one larger unit: you can use two smaller sidepods then. You may think that two half size cores would be equivalent to one full size one, but they usually aren't, as the flow enters the first core, gets cooled and enters the 2nd colder obviously. what this means is that the delta t between coolant and ambient air isn't as great, therefore less heat is taken from core 2. A taller single core would have a slower flow rate across more tubes, rejecting more heat to ambient.
the fan should be specced so that the fan's pressure curve crosses the rad's pressure drop curve. the point where they meet is the rate that the fan wil pull air through. If this is sufficient from your heat rejection 3d plots, then you will effectively cool the coolant when the car is stationary (assuming all your ducting is good and airtight)
Jonathan Gray
Brunel Racing Team Principal 2004 - 2005
I was just wondering, why not run the radiators in parallel? This would make the inlet temperatures the same at each rad. It would be a little bit more piping, and you would need a way to distribute the flow equally to both rads.