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Thread: Positive locking for sphericals

  1. #11
    The staking tool is usually in the bearing catalogue. you have to make it yourself.

    http://www.aurorabearing.com/Files/a...nical-data.pdf

    on page 12 there is a drawing of the staking tool for aurora bearings. We make it out of silver steel and then anneal it.
    Monash FSAE (2005-2009)
    www.monashmotorsport.com

  2. #12
    You do not have to make the staking tools yourself, I got a set of staking and finishing dies from High Performance Vehicle Engineering for $170 shipped.

    I staked in Aurora HAB-5TGs into a 6061 bearing housing @ 10,000lbf using the HPVE staking and finishing dies. when i tried to press the bearing OUT of the housing the bearing's liner failed a little bit above 3,000lbf but the race was still staked into the housing.
    CU FSAE 2006-2009

  3. #13
    we staked the inboard bearing into welded post machined housing on the a-arms, with a bit of green loctite to give it some insurance. Staking tool was really just the closest sized sockets with a manual press. Outboard we have machined housing(again post-machined after welding) with smalley spiral retaining ring..
    Finished @ UofT Racing
    2003-2007
    www.fsae.utoronto.ca

  4. #14
    <BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Staking tool was really just the closest sized sockets with a manual press. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>



    !!!! !!!!



    Best,
    Drew
    _______________________________________

    Northwestern Formula Racing Alum
    Head Engineer, Frame/Suspension 2006-2009

    My '73 Saab 99 Road Race Build

  5. #15
    Senior Member
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    We're using snap rings this year to retain our sphericals. So far they work well and the bearing cups that weld to the a arms weren't too hard to make. Hardest part was cutting the snap ring groove.
    Formula SAE: When you just can't get rid of a girlfriend.

  6. #16
    @Drew:

    7 cars that I've seen and 4 that I've done myself and it worked for all 8 a-arms every time....

    Never had a single bearing poped out on me neither....
    Finished @ UofT Racing
    2003-2007
    www.fsae.utoronto.ca

  7. #17
    <BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by RacingManiac:
    @Drew:

    7 cars that I've seen and 4 that I've done myself and it worked for all 8 a-arms every time....

    Never had a single bearing poped out on me neither.... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>



    Cool. Sure beats shelling out the $170 or whatever for the tools, or spending 3 hours on the lathe making up a set.

    I may try something quick like this, I'm a lot more comfortable pressing against a retaining shoulder to take axial loads from push / pull rods, but they are a royal pain to machine.

    I have thought about making up a reamer with most of the guide chamfer removed so it could go right up against the shoulder, but like everyone knows, time is always the problem.

    Best,
    Drew
    _______________________________________

    Northwestern Formula Racing Alum
    Head Engineer, Frame/Suspension 2006-2009

    My '73 Saab 99 Road Race Build

  8. #18
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    Kanpur, India
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    18
    Bumped into this really old thread, but got to ask this question. We've been machining a grove for a snap ring on one side and a shoulder on other side of the housing for sphericals for both our Baja and formula cars, and we've used bearing sizes right from 1/2" to 8mm bores. But we've always faced this problem of our snap rings rubbing the bearing balls (see the image). We've used the high misalignment series from Aurora. Has anyone faced this issue? The interference has been really small, and grinding the snap ring just a little (near the circled zone) has been a quick fix. I have always thought of staking the bearings in future, but since many teams are taking the snap ring route, I thought it was worth asking!
    Captureber.jpg
    IITK Motorsports Alum
    Electronics, FS India 2016
    Baja Student India 2016
    Drivetrain and Tech Lead, Baja Student India 2015

  9. #19
    This is not a solution to your problem, but for all the teams that use snap rings: how do you avoid slop in these joints? Do you shim each and every one of the bearings against the snap rings into the housings? I guess slop here may not be the worst thing (doesn't affect control arm length that much really) but just seems very sketchy.

    Grinding away that part of the snap ring very likely makes it difficult to remove the snap ring right? Is the snap ring method easier for you to manufacture? Or do you do it so you can remove the bearings and re-use?
    Penn Electric Racing

  10. #20
    Senior Member
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    Bolton, CT
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    We had the same issue with similar circlips and would also grind off the innermost region of the tab to prevent interference.

    Our final solution was moving to staking. Staking is really easier once you make the staking tool since you no longer need to machine inner groves, use snap rings, and can reduce the flange thickness (biggest advantage for us).
    Jim
    "Old guy #1" at UCONN Racing

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