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jaca
01-14-2009, 01:29 AM
Does anyone know of a good way to split a branch off the trunk of a wiring harness (a Y junction)?

For the 09 car I'd like to use braided sleeving for the harness (which in my opinion is way nicer than split loom or that nasty adhesive wire wrap stuff). The ideal solution would be a Y shaped piece of heatshrink, but as far as I can tell Tyco is the only manufacturer who makes anything like it, and it costs like 15 bucks a joint.

Does this stuff exist / is there any other clean way to tee off braided sleeving?

Am I even on the right track with the harness enclosure? I've read a ton of stuff on race and aerospace application wiring, but it's focused mostly on fastening wires (proper crimps/connectors/etc) rather than cableing and building a harness.

jaca
01-14-2009, 01:29 AM
Does anyone know of a good way to split a branch off the trunk of a wiring harness (a Y junction)?

For the 09 car I'd like to use braided sleeving for the harness (which in my opinion is way nicer than split loom or that nasty adhesive wire wrap stuff). The ideal solution would be a Y shaped piece of heatshrink, but as far as I can tell Tyco is the only manufacturer who makes anything like it, and it costs like 15 bucks a joint.

Does this stuff exist / is there any other clean way to tee off braided sleeving?

Am I even on the right track with the harness enclosure? I've read a ton of stuff on race and aerospace application wiring, but it's focused mostly on fastening wires (proper crimps/connectors/etc) rather than cableing and building a harness.

HenningO
01-14-2009, 02:07 AM
Try contacting Tyco, we got sponsored with a lot of heatshrink junctions as well as ordinary heatshrink tubing. Correction: We got sponsored by: http://www.hellermanntyton.com/

You can also make your own junction using heatshrink tubing (three pieces make an Y).

Drew Price
01-14-2009, 09:17 AM
Don't make a 'Y', run the first wire the full length, strip a 'cylinder' of insulation off where you want to make the joint, twist the wires together and solder, and slide a piece of straight heat-shrink over the joint to a point above the splice, it will hold the wires together from the splice being pulled free.

A lot of the 'Y' junctions on our stock Suzuki harness came this way.

Best,
Drew

ERS
01-14-2009, 07:16 PM
You can do it if you have different sized heatshrinks / sleevings
Shrink or sleeve the two "top" sections of the Y (if that makes sense), then put the bigger shrinkwrap over the top of them, covering the joint over, and shrink

The glue type heatshrink is best for this, nice water-proof joint

jaca
01-14-2009, 10:12 PM
yeah I know how to splice the actual connections (probably going to crimp vs solder), I was wondering about splicing the harness sheathing

the two sections of heatshrink makes sense, I was thinking about trying this but wanted to make sure there weren't cheap Y heatshrink sections available first

laszlo.t
09-14-2013, 04:04 PM
yeah I know how to splice the actual connections (probably going to crimp vs solder), I was wondering about splicing the harness sheathing

the two sections of heatshrink makes sense, I was thinking about trying this but wanted to make sure there weren't cheap Y heatshrink sections available first

Here's this Hungarian company, which makes a potting mould for cable harness junctions for something like 18 EUR. Haven't tried it myself, but you can easily produce a thing similar to this.

URL:
http://shop.traconelectric.com/product/KYT-2_5

wweissin
09-15-2013, 02:19 AM
Remember you can just use a straight boot (read cheaper in cost. easier to rework if needed) and have the wires go their respective directions after that.
Here is an example.
http://mototronics.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/Straight-Junction1.jpg